Road Dispatch

The Pulse Oximeter

Ouray, Colorado

June 10, 2026

// subscribe
New Roads entries appear on Substack two weeks before this site.

The Fishing Expedition Video · watch on youtube →

I got the fishing expedition video edited. I ended up calling it "The #1 Worst Thing about Van Life." If I'd called it The Fishing Expedition I'd get the wrong clicks, people looking to catch fish. It reminds me a little of Jed and the Splinter, in that it has a tight story arc and fell together relatively easily. I'm getting better at editing. Getting better at shooting. Still tedious, but faster at all of it.

I was locked in at the computer most of yesterday. Around 4:30pm I joined Shannon for a couple mile hike up a 4x4 trail to the top of the hill. We're at 8,500 feet here. It was steep. First time using my new hiking poles. Those things are going to get a lot of use. One of the new Field Guides I'm making is all about hiking poles.

This has been a great spot. Spacious, private, wooded, on a river. Fruitful days and restful nights. I've enjoyed having a friend around the campfire and for hikes. We travel well together. This is the longest I've traveled with another person. We'll probably keep it going another two or three weeks.

The last time I was in Telluride was March 2022, a three month snowboarding trip. I had the Epic Pass and went from resort to resort, sleeping in the van. I'd work until noon and snowboard from noon to about 3:30. My dogs were with me. If they'd had a walk that morning I felt fine leaving them for three hours. They were such good boys. I miss them forever.

When I was 20 I hiked up to Kala Patthar in Nepal, right past Everest Base Camp, to about 18,500 feet. From there you can see the five highest points on earth. Most of my group didn't make it that far. I remember taking a few steps and needing to stop for breath. Nothing grew up there except strange cactus-like things that looked like something from Star Trek. They burned yak dung for fires since there was no wood. The altitude hit other people harder than it hit me.

Which made what happened in Telluride in 2022 all the more humbling. I was up on the very top of the mountain, over 13,000 feet, cold and dark and windy, and I needed to make a long flat traverse on the snowboard. I could not catch my breath. I'd stop, rest, try again. It just wouldn't come. I'd never experienced anything like it. I didn't know how dangerous it was getting. I flagged down a snowmobile and got a ride back to the lift. Back at my van, around 9,000 feet, the shortness of breath continued. I bought a can of oxygen, which helped, but only for about five minutes at a time. I have a little pulse oximeter that clips to your finger and reads your blood oxygen saturation. For about 24 hours it was telling me to go straight to a doctor.

I ended up leaving Telluride early and dropping to lower elevation. I went straight to Orvis Hot Springs in Ridgway and soaked for a day. That brought me back. And that's exactly where I'm headed today. They're at 7,000 feet.


// the last six weeks

While I'm thinking about elevations and where the road takes me, here's the full log. Forty-two nights, twelve camps, from a hidden spring near Zion to here on the river outside Ouray.

DateLocationDispatch
Apr 29Southern UtahThe Butter
Apr 30Southern UtahThe Eagle
May 1En route → Arizona StripThe Gum
May 2Arizona StripThe Podcast
May 3Arizona StripThe Footsteps
May 4Arizona StripThe Condors
May 5Arizona StripThe Spot
May 6Arizona StripThe Wind
May 7Arizona StripThe Rope
May 8Arizona StripThe Shower
May 9Arizona StripThe Heat
May 10Jacob Lake, AZJacob Lake
May 11Jacob Lake, AZMonk Mode
May 12Jacob Lake, AZPracticing My Love
May 13Jacob Lake, AZThe Moths
May 14Jacob Lake, AZButter Weather
May 15Jacob Lake, AZThe Walkie Talkie
May 16Jacob Lake, AZG
May 17Jacob Lake, AZInto the North Rim
May 18North Rim, AZThe Foreign Visitor
May 19North Rim, AZTaxiing
May 20North Rim, AZIt's Just a Feature
May 21North Rim, AZThe Volume
May 22North Rim, AZThe Burn Zone
May 23North Rim, AZThe Haydukers
May 24North Rim, AZThe Trail of Torture
May 25North Rim, AZBase Camp
May 26North Rim, AZThe Ancient Television
May 27Grand Canyon, AZThe Container
May 28Page, AZThe Stack
May 29Mesa Verde, COCliff Palace
May 30Durango, COThe Cold Plunge
May 31Durango, COThe Cost of Doing Business
Jun 1Durango, COA Reunion
Jun 2San Juan Mountains, COThe White Powder
Jun 3San Juan Mountains, COThe Game
Jun 4San Juan Mountains, COThe Aircraft Carrier
Jun 5San Juan Mountains, COThe Lake
Jun 6Ouray, COThe Pothole
Jun 7Ouray, COThe Fox
Jun 8Ouray, CODriftin'
Jun 9Ouray, COThe Fishing Expedition
12 distinct camps in 42 nights. Longest stays: North Rim (9 nights, 2 sites) and the Arizona Strip (8 nights, 2 sites).
← roads ← the fishing expedition